Okay.... so I am going to be very busy in the next week trying to catch up on all the events I need to blog about.  Here are just a few things to look forward to:

• CHA 2010
• Burda Style
• Inspiring Technique
• Have we met?
• NSC Sewing Lounge
• more......

Well if I spend all this time listing things, I won't be able to get the writing done, so ttyl  Bob

Bob would ever consider being a contestant on Project Runway?

I recieve this question alot and so I thought I would address it in my blog today. 

I had considered applying for Project Runway earlier on, when it first aired, but now I don’t really feel it is a path leading to where I am going in my career now.   This is mainly because my aspirations have changed, now being involved with the How to Fashion Design DVD program, and with the other areas where I want to work.  I don’t see Project Runway being a benefit to those goals.  

I am a competitive person so that aspect of the show excites me, however the project challenges Project Runway presents to the designers does not.   With the time constraint, and the manner in which the challenge is presented, it doesn't allow for the design aspect that I like most.  So the show does not inspire me in the way I like to design, not that this method is wrong, but it just isn’t me as a Designer.  This may seem hard to understand for some of you out there staring out in design, but if you understand the design process clearly,
you know why I say this. 

So for those of you out there with this nagging question lingering over your heads...LOL...you now can be at rest having the answer ;)

How To Fashion Design is a program that teaches fashion design to practically anyone who wants to learn. It’ offers an alternative to reading books and paying for expensive classes or college.

 

It’s unique because it’ covers all areas of fashion design, sewing, drawing, designing, researching, and illustrating. Most programs focus on one of those areas but not all of them together. They are all essential, and they all need to feed off each other, which is what my program teaches… It’s a college education at your fingertips, and at an extremely low price.

 

Where, How, and When did I become interested in Fashion Design?

 

This is always been one of the first questions I am asked. I think the reason being is that it seems like an unlikely field for a straight country boy who grew up in “Small Town USA”. 

 

I was really attracted to the idea of design in general first.  I love the idea of gathering research, experimenting and discovering answers. The design process is full of this. I have always been into making things from building homes to skateboard ramps, from props for plays to ice sculptures. Working with my hands is what I love to do.

 

I have always been interested in fashion since I was a child. Whether it was dressing up and playing pretend or trying to find my own personal style as a teenager.   It was when the love for design and interest in fashion collided that I knew I wanted to pursue it. I had a late start and moved to London when I was 22 to study fashion design. From there the rest is history.

 

I have your DVDs, which I like very much.  I followed along step-by-step on drawing the human figure and was pleased with my results right away. The idea that a fashion sketch is 9 heads tall is interesting, but is there a formula for drawing people of regular height, 8 heads tall?

 

Thanks for you question Joanne!

There is a formula for drawing the 8 head figure as well.  As a fashion designer, you will not want to illustrate your designs on a model of 8 heads, for reasons we discuss in the Fashion Drawing DVD.  With that said the figure points are as follows for an 8 head figure.

Line 1 – Head     Line  2 - Chest line at nipples  Line 3 - Waistline, at bellybutton  Line 4 - Groin Area Line 5 - Just above the knee  Line 6 - Just below knee  Line 7 - Mid calf  Line 8 - Bottom of feet.

Be sure to master your 9 head figure first! 

I would strongly suggest that you be able to draw accurately the proportions for the 9 head fashion figure before any bad habits could form, due to any confusion of these two serperate figure sizes.

Remember to meet me in the studio and discuss your projects.  I enjoy reviewing your work, so until next time, keep designing!

 

What will fashion trends be in the years to come? 

People seem to be discussing this subject more and more with the economic and environmental issues. 

I see fashion in the next 5 years turning to more “green” thinking.  It is becoming more important to people, really in the last 10 years, and I think you will continue to see that grow in interest. Typically people who don’t normally consider it will.

The bad economy will also force people to rethink their wardrobe and to be more versatile. I think you will see styling play a big role in what we wear. Simply adding accessories to your wardrobe, for example my “Heel Jacket”, where women can dress up an ordinary outfit with a cleverly designed accessory.

Ecommerce also will, and has had an affect on the way we can buy designer clothing. Some people never had access to buy certain top brand names. Internet has opened the door for people to buy brands and styles they would not have before.

There is a lot of information on the internet about this topic and if you would like to read more, you can find one article here at fashion.infomat

Check out the Free newly uploaded Designed Garment by Bob Martin.

I call this garment the Cumber Belt! 

Inspired by the cumber bund this trendy accessory fits every occasion.  From casual to even formal, you decide when you choose the fabric.  This garment is a fun, stylish, and a simple project to complete.  I have included detailed instructions as well as photographs to help you along the way.

As always send me the pictures of you wearing your finished garment. 

Happy Designing!

 

 

Now that 2010 has arrived and you are making your first New Year's resolution, I thought I would put the challenge out there to all of you who have been putting off your dream to learn design.

What better time to start down the path to your dreams, than now! 

Take your future by it's boot straps and get on board with How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin Today!

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

I am looking forward to meeting all the new clients of How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin, in the year to come!

Happy Designing,

Fashion Designer Bob Martin

Any words of advice for a knitting designer?

My words of advice for a knitting designer are, try to knit anything!  One thing that knit designers have over fabric designers are the ability to actually create your textile.   Knitwear is very organic because you grow everything.  Every time you add a row you can do whatever you want in the design, you can drop stitches, you don’t have to use any seams, you can add yarn, you can take yarn away, and there is no limit!!  You can literally grow it into anything, so let that be your inspiration to just try anything! 

 Garrith Pugh knitted garbage bags!

As a designer myself I am often look at Aitor Throup or Garrith Pugh as two of my favorites.  Garrith Pugh, because his designs are off the wall and bizarre yet exquisitely executed.  His garments are far out but believable at the same time.  Most people think, I would never wear that, but this is the type of design that inspires other ready wear designers. I really like those designers that are inspiring other designers.

Some designers look at past designs for inspiration, and there are even designers that look back to their own designs and find new inspirations.  You hear some designers say, don’t copy my designs, but in away it is a compliment to have someone look at your work and be inspired by it.  I love to see a design come down the runway that makes you think… I have seen that before but I can’t quite put my finger on where it was.

These types of fashions are truly innovative and you will see them filter down through seasons, to other designer’s collections.  This is just a few reasons why these are my favorites.

I was asked a question about portraying texture in clothing and felt the answer would be interesting to most you designers as well.

This can be very difficult at times, depending on the textile you are trying to represent.  One of the techniques I use, and find works quite effectively, is to do a rubbing. 

What is a rubbing you may ask? 

Well it is when you place a textured surface under your drawing paper and literally rub the graphite of your pencil on top of your paper and over the textured surface you placed underneath.  Patterns for almost any textile can be replicated by using this method.  Experiment with plastics, metals, wood objects, or even very heavily textured fabrics themselves. 

You will find this drawing tip to be very useful, especially when trying to draw fabrics like knit.  Don't forget that the rubbing can be a simple suggestion of the texture, and doesn't have to cover the entire garment in the illustration.

To learn more about drawing fashion and techniques like these, check out my Fashion Drawing DVD

This is the season for hustle and bustle! 

People are searching high and low for that perfect gift for that special person in their lives.  I wanted to remind everyone that How To Fashion Design with Bob Martin is a great unique gift for anyone who is creative on your list.  The variety of people enjoying this lesson has astounded me.  We have new clients ranging form beginner designer, to accomplished sewers, all learning from this lesson. 

It thrills me to know that people have discovered how to use the design process in the creative projects they do, even like jewelry making.

 The response has been Awesome! Thanks to all of you for your encouragement. So those of you looking and looking for a unique gift for a teen, or even an at home hobbyist, this lesson will give them the ability to take their creativity to the next level.

Until next time!

Jersey is a great material!

This is probably ....next to leather, my favorite fabric to construct garments with.  It can come in a variety of styles and patterns, even some surprising ones at times.

Jersey fabric will stretch with movement, and with the shape of the body.  This gives your garment an easy fit, and makes it very comfortable to wear.

When you shop for your jersey, you may find different weights.
I suggest you use medium-weight to lightweight jersey for shirts.

 

Some jersey will stretch more than others, especially if it is a Lycra mix (for example, 80% cotton and 20% Lycra) instead of a 100% cotton jersey.

 

If you have never sewn with jersey before, I would use medium weight 100% cotton jersey.  Lighter-weight and Lycra-mix jerseys will be slightly more difficult to cut and sew. These types of jersey do make the drape of the garment look nice, but may be a bit too ambitious for your first try.

 

Give my favorite textile a try and let me know what you think, and most of all Keep Designing!

As I have said many times over, fashion is fast and efficient.  Every designer needs to have work habits that keep them on task and on time. 

 

One way of working efficiently is by cutting pattern pairs at the same time.  This is done by placing the pattern piece on the fold of the fabric. Be sure to first identify which pieces need to be cut in pairs, and which need patterns only one piece. Accidentally cutting two fronts could cost you a lot of fabric and wasted money. 

 

Also remember that when you are using contrasting fabrics, you will want to pin the pattern pieces accordingly.  This can also be costly if you purchased just enough fabric to make the garment, and then cut out your pattern in the WRONG fabric...has anyone ever done this before?...

If you are making everything out of the same fabric then pin ALL the patterns pieces down first.  If you are using another fabric for contrast, then lay that out as well and pin the patterns to the piece of contrasting fabric.

 

One can never be too organized when it comes to efficeincy.

I often hear people say the issue with being innovative is the ability to actually construct what you have designed. 

Recreating your design from your illustration.....bringing it to life, is sometimes a challenge to say the least.  When your design process leads down a road you've never traveled before, it is both exhilarating and usually very eventful! 

Finding ways to replicate what you imagine can be quite a challenge.  Little things like the right attachment can mean a world of difference in the diffculties you may face during this process.  I believe some of the easiest ways to accomplish innovative ideas, are by understanding how to use the tools you already have, in ways they were not designed to be used. 

For example

How many of you knew that Bed Head was a great aging tool to make textiles look like they have been rubbed in one place.....over time...years....  Many of our own household items can be used to recreate these types of things.  Another example would be my sewing machine.  Many of you know I have a Bernina, and in addition I have several attachments I regularly use, one of which is the Edgestitch Foot #10.  This foot is intended to stitch closely to seams and edges.  I recently have used it for sewing between tight ribbed edges I created on an accessory I'm designing. 

Versatility in Fashion Design is a good talent to acquire. 

I challenge you to use the tools you already have in new ways, other than what they were intended for.  There just might be some surprising developments that aid you in successfully pulling of the unique idea you illustrated.

So see you in the Interactive Studio and you can clue me in on some of your discoveries too!

What are Pattern Points or Drill holes? 

 

Well, if you completed my latest Free project at sewingrepublic.com, then you used pattern points. 

In this pattern, I used specific pattern markings to show where to attach the gussets on the side seam of the shirt, as well as the underarm area. 

Once a pattern is cut out, you need to be able to relocate the correct position for stitching.  This could be used for many different reasons, such as buttons, gussets, or any thing that may need to be placed on the garment later in the construction process.

These guidance points allow you to match up the exact position to attach other pattern pieces or sew on embellishments.  This is done to produce an easy and accurate placing.

To do this, you double the thread on your needle, with contrasting thread.  Tie a knot on the end. Now pass the needle exactly through the fabric at the drill hole marked on the pattern, and then pull until your thread stops at the knot.

 

Now clip the thread leaving about 2" of thread as a tail. Tie another knot and repeat on all point holes.

There are some people who tie a loose knot with their marking threads, which is fine; but I find that as long as I am careful, the 2" tail is sufficient to keep the thread in place.

 

Not tying a knot makes it easier and quicker to remove the marking threads later on. Your main concern here is that these marking threads stay in the fabric until you need to remove them.

 

Understanding how to properly mark fabric is very important.  Using thread to mark positions is the correct way to do it.  Now put away those pencils and ink pens!  I know you have done this and are probably still tempted at times.  Believe me when I say, you can ruin a garment by using ink, lead, or other types of marking instruments.

 

So try out the Square Gusset t-shirt and practice marking your Pattern points/ drill holes the right way.

I have had several people come and ask me to write articles or posts for blogs and such.  I have been reluctant to do this because of the time I would be committing to do it.

So for this month ONLY, I am going to be allotting time in my schedule to answering some questions related to How To Fashion Design products and services.

I will allow some personal questions but reserve the right to my privacy ;) 

So if you have a Blog or Website that pertains to Fashion Design, and would like to post an interview of me, or would like me to consider writing something specific for your site, 

Link to my blog or website and email  customerservice@howtofashiondesign.com  with your request and details.

I'm looking forward to meeting all of you!

For those of you who have seen my video clips, you notice that I have used the Bernina’s Cut n' Sew attachment #80/90. 

 

One of the best things about this attachment is it neatly and cleanly removes the unwanted seam allowance from the stitched edge.  This is much easier, and a far more efficient way of trimming seam allowance.

 

Trying to use a pair of scissors and tediously trimming away the allowance, can be nerve racking.  You have to be very cautious of not cutting into your stitch line, or the seam itself.  This attachment allows you to skip that step, by sewing and cutting at the same time! 

I would highly suggest checking this awesome attachment out.

It’s not necessary in order to create a clean finish, however, it sure does do a nice job!

 

Here is a tip for those of you who are begining, or are currently try to find out how to cut fabric that is very thin, or very stretchy.

 

I will roll some paper out first, and then lay out my fabric on top of the paper.
I make the selvage of the fabric even with the straight edge of the paper. Then I will pin it in onto the paper in several places.

 

This helps the fabric to lay flat and relaxed, while I pin my pattern to it.

 

I lay my pattern pieces out, and pin through my pattern into my fabric, and through the paper underneath. The fabric is sandwiched between the paper below and the pattern on top.

 

Then I cut around the pattern, cutting through the fabric and bottom sheet of paper.

 

It is that simple.  It takes a little bit of time and paper, but it is well worth the effort.  You will find that this makes cutting out easier when using delicate materials, and accuracy....which is key to most of your sewing success, possible.

 

Use as many pins as you like, but remember, it’s a good habit to pin inside your seam allowances to prevent scaring the outside of your final garment fabric.

 

Look for more tips like these in future post to come.